The best scenic drives in the Costa Brava
The Costa Brava has some of the most scenic and varied landscapes in Spain with views guaranteed to win over even the most reluctant of drivers. Near the coast itself you’ll find pine woods hugging coral-coloured cliffs along sinuous bends but the inland landscape is just as beautiful, and full of drama too. After a leisurely jaunt through country lanes lined with vineyards, olive groves, rice fields or plane trees, with the Montgrí, Gavarres or Pyrenee mountains in the distance, head towards the coast and you’ll be rewarded with a breathtaking reveal as the gleaming Mediterranean sneaks into view ahead of you.
For more Costa Brava inspiration, see our guide to hotels, restaurants, things to do, nightlife and beaches.
Palafrugell to Begur
With winding roads and the teal-coloured Mediterranean peeping out through pine-filled woodland below you, this wonderfully scenic drive takes in some of the most gorgeous parts of the romantic Costa Brava. Starting from Palafrugell, just north-east of Girona, you pass through several of its loveliest bays as well as the superbly preserved medieval town of Begur.
The route is just over 10 miles and depending on stop-offs, takes an hour or so, but the roads have bends aplenty and even though local drivers might tear along them like Lewis Hamilton, you could easily spend a day taking it all in, in a more leisurely manner.
From Palafrugell, look out for signs to Calella de Palafrugell and nearby Llafranc. Avoid the GN-6546 dual carriageway and take the much more scenic GIP-6453, which rolls through pine woods and fields dotted with farmhouses.
As you arrive at Calella de Palafrugell town centre, you could stop for a stroll along the wide sandy beach and admire the 19th-century villas on the promenade. Otherwise take the right-hand exit at the roundabout towards Llafranc.
Llafranc is another of the Costa Brava’s prettiest and most chi-chi small resorts, an old fishing village with a horseshoe bay and marina with excellent restaurants, cafés, bars and hotels. If you’re ready for a coffee or carajillo (black coffee with rum or brandy), then Hotel Llevant has a lovely seafront terrace.
Otherwise, carry on driving until you get to the main square halfway along the beach. Turn left and at the top of the road, then turn right towards Tamariu. As the road climbs, you’ll be able to take in spectacular views back down over the bay at Llafranc. Join the Palafrugell road again until you see another sign for Tamariu. Drive down through the tall pine woods till the road descends and you see the sea on your right hand side.
If you’re ready for lunch, Es Dofi does wonderful seafood just yards from the water. Snack on the moreish and phenomenally fresh, fried somsos (sand eels), which come piled high like mini whitebait, or feast on main courses of hake, turbot, bream and exceptionally juicy, fat calamares, with salad and chips. Otherwise, keep straight on the road towards Begur.
The small hilltop town of Begur is perfect for whiling away the afternoon. Its winding, cobbled streets are lined with colonial 19th-century townhouses and quirky shops and the castle at the top has spectacular views. If you haven’t had lunch yet or want to stay for dinner, the Hotel Aiguaclara specialises in excellent, contemporary Catalan cuisine.
Figueres to La Bisbal
The Costa Brava may be most famous for the rugged coastline from which it gets its name, but lesser known is the equally lovely, verdant countryside of the Baix Empordá (or Lower Empordá), which lies just inland.
This 27-mile drive takes you through it, whilst also passing through some of the area’s most striking medieval villages. This isn’t the kind of landscape you’ll want to rush through, so allow a full day.
Starting off from Figueres, head south along the N-II till you reach the crossroads with the smaller C-31. Join the C-31 towards Torroella de Montgrí and you’ll see vineyards on either side: this is wine-growing country, with the grey haze of the Pyrenees in the distance behind you.
After a while you’ll spot the 13th-century rectangular-looking castle atop the small town of Torroella de Montgrí. Lurking beneath the dark grey Montgrí Massif, this traditional market town is full of rambling lanes lined with Gothic courtyards and Renaissance mansions splaying out from the porticoed main Placa de la Vila.
The cafés and restaurants of the placa (plaza) are perfect for coffee. If you don’t mind an hour-long uphill hike, the castle has panoramic views out to the Empordá plains, the coast and the Pyrenees.
Rejoin the C-31 towards Pals, passing through rice fields (Pals is famous for its rice) and vineyards, but look out for a right-hand turning two or three miles along onto a smaller country road – the GI-651 in the direction of Peratallada and La Bisbal.
Carry on until Peratallada, arguably the prettiest of the region’s medieval villages. Park opposite the moat which surrounds the fortified walls and walk through the arched gate to the town. Once you’ve wandered up through the cobbled streets past craft shops and galleries, head to L’Arc Vell (Plaça del Castell) on the northerly part of the central square. This restaurant does delicious, great-value barbecued meats.
Follow the GI-651 towards the ceramic-making town of La Bisbal until it meets the GI-644 for the final leg into La Bisbal’s town centre.
Shops along the main street sell hand-painted ceramics of every description in bright greens, yellows, reds and terracottas, from decorative wall tiles to crockery. Bodega Matias (Calle Aigueta, 26) has a great selection of local wines. Round off the day with a drink or dinner at the 14th-century Castell d’Emporda on the edge of town, which has been converted into an exquisite hotel and restaurant.
