Botox Alternatives Are Booming — These Are The Best Ingredients to Look For

If you’re not down with needles, these at-home Botox alternatives can give you the skin-smoothing results you desire.

No matter how much SPF 50 you’ve slathered on or how religiously you’ve dabbed hyaluronic acid onto your forehead, fine lines and wrinkles come for us all eventually. If you’re ready to rock your smile lines as evidence of a happy, fulfilled life, you go, Glen Coco — but others may feel more confident with smoother, plumper-looking skin.

For many people concerned about aging skin, Botox is the first wrinkle treatment that springs to mind. And full disclosure, there’s no at-home Botox treatment that will fully replicate the paralyzing effects of the neuromodulator botulinum toxin (commonly known as Botox). But if you’re looking for a more natural Botox alternative that’s needle-free, certain skincare ingredients can help you fill in fine lines and wrinkles while stimulating collagen production. Here’s what to know about ingredients in Botox alternatives and topical skincare.

How Does Botox Treat Wrinkles?

To understand the difference between Botox and topical skincare when it comes to treating fine lines and wrinkles, it’s helpful to understand how they form in the first place. Dynamic lines are the wrinkles “caused by muscle movement,” says Dendy Engelman, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in NYC. That can be your forehead moving up and down, furrowing the brows, or squinting the eyes, to name a few.

“When the muscles of facial expression contract, they also create wrinkles in the skin,” explains Hadley King, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City.

Skin damage caused by UV radiation (read: the sun), smoking, and just general aging causes a breakdown of collagen and elastin, making the skin less resilient and also more prone to deeper lines and wrinkles.

So how does Botox treat wrinkles? When injected into a facial muscle, botulinum toxin prevents that muscle from moving by blocking the release of the chemical acetylcholine. As the muscle is forced to relax, it’s no longer able to create the dynamic lines in your skin — leading to a smoother, wrinkle-free appearance.

Best Ingredients in Botox Alternatives

We’ll say it again: No matter how fancy or expensive it is, no topical skincare product can do the exact same thing Botox does. However, certain skincare ingredients have been clinically proven to deliver similar effects (and these topical wrinkle treatments may even be a better choice for you than Botox — more on that later). These are the at-home Botox alternative ingredients to search for when browsing the skincare aisle.

Peptides

Peptides are short chains of amino acids that come in many forms. The anti-aging potential of peptides was first shown nearly two decades ago in National Institutes of Health (NIH)-backed research on the ingredient Matrixyl, or palmitoyl pentapeptide-3. It showed its ability to stimulate collagen production in skin, which helps plump up fine lines and reduce the appearance of wrinkles.

But pentapeptides aren’t the only skin-boosting peptides in town. Hexapeptides, like Argireline, may be able to diminish the creasing that causes fine lines a la Botox. Palmitoyl oligopeptide promotes the production of collagen and hyaluronic acid, in addition to protecting against the damaging effects of UV rays. Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 is thought to reduce inflammation and stimulate skin regeneration. Copper peptides have been shown to increase skin elasticity and firmness.

While the research is promising, “more independent, larger, well-structured studies are needed to definitively evaluate these claims,” Dr. King cautions.

Retinoids

Whether your concerns are acne, dullness, or lines and wrinkles, retinol and retinoids are proven to help. “Beyond sun protection, retinoids are the most proven topical option for anti-aging,” Dr. King said. This is why Dr. Engelman recommends the ingredient to just about everyone. “Retinol is a powerful cell-signaling ingredient that triggers the production of collagen and elastin and causes cells to behave like younger, healthier cells,” she explains. “This contributes to a more youthful skin barrier – especially with continuous use over time – which is why I recommend that everyone starting in their twenties adds retinol and/or retinol alternatives to their skincare routine.”

It should be noted that retinol and retinoids are not safe if you are pregnant or breastfeeding, but there are other options. “Plant-based alternatives like bakuchiol and rambutan have similar but gentler effects,” Dr. King said.

Related: The Best Retinol Products for Every Skin Type, According to Top Derms

Growth Factors

Epidermal growth factors (EGF) are one of the most common growth factors found in skincare. “EGF is another amazing ingredient for repairing and strengthening the skin barrier and preventing signs of aging,” Dr. Engelman says. “EGF boosts collagen and elastin production in the skin, which helps fortify the skin barrier and prevent and reduce fine lines and wrinkles.”

Humectants

Yes, your skin needs to stay hydrated too. According to Dr. Engelmen, dry, dehydrated skin amplifies wrinkles and fine lines, making them look even more etched into your skin. Plus, you’ll also notice hollowness and dark circles under your eyes. Staying hydrated — both by drinking water and by applying hydrating skincare products — is key for dewy AF skin.

Your go-to ingredients: hyaluronic acid and glycerin, both of which draw moisture into the skin for an instant, refreshing boost of hydration.

Related: The 14 Best Hyaluronic Acid Serums of 2023, Tested & Reviewed

Antioxidants and Sun Protection

Antioxidants, ICYDK, are like a protective shield for your skin. They counteract any damage caused by free radicals and the environment around you (like dangerous UV rays or pollution from poor air quality). Certain antioxidants, like vitamin C, contribute to collagen production and are therefore associated with reducing fine lines and wrinkles.

“Topical antioxidants combined with sunscreen have been shown to provide more sun protection compared to sunscreen alone,” Dr. King shares. Everything we’ve talked about in this article is for naught if you are not guarding your skin against damaging UV rays. Sunscreen should be worn during daylight hours regardless of the weather and time of year.

Related: The 15 Best Face Sunscreens of 2023, Tested & Reviewed

Do Botox Alternatives Work?

Short answer, yes: non-injectable Botox ingredients can have visible results on your skin. But — and there’s always a but — they require a lot more patience. Botox and its peers (like Dysport, Juvederm, and Daxxify) start working in about a week, with your “peak” results showing up two weeks after your appointment. How long your results last depends on your personal skin, DNA, and skincare, but you’ll generally experience smooth, wrinkle-free skin for three or four months.

When it comes to skincare, consistency is key for wrinkle treatments. You’ll need to use the products in accordance with the directions in order to see the results. While you will notice the plumping effects of a hydrating ingredient like hyaluronic acid immediately, it’s a temporary boost. You’ll need to commit to your new skincare routine for at least a month before you start to see noticeable results.

At-home devices require similar logic. The benefits of LED therapy, for example, reveal themselves over time with regular use (think: several times a week), though you might enjoy a bit of a short-term glow after each treatment. Microcurrent tools can provide an immediate ‘lift,’ but it usually wears off after a few hours. With consistent use over time, however, you will start to see more lasting effects.

Want a bright side? Topical skincare and at-home devices can have the upper hand on Botox when it comes to longevity. While neuromodulators peak about two to four weeks after injection and wear off over time, the benefits of skincare are cumulative. So, while you’ll have to wait longer to see a result (and the result will be less dramatic than Botox), the effect builds and can be sustained over time with regular use.

Are Non-Injectable Botox Alternatives More Expensive Than Botox?

In general, topical Botox alternatives are a little friendlier on the wallet than traditional injectables like Botox. According to the most recent statistics from the American Society of Plastic Surgeons (ASPS), the average cost of botulinum toxin injections is $466. While some medspa-type facilities may price Botox treatments as a flat rate by area (i.e. forehead, crow’s feet, lip flip, etc.), most dermatologists and plastic surgeons charge per unit. The cost is inclusive of the product, their time, and their level of expertise.

Want hard numbers? You’re likely looking at a $10 to $20 per unit cost for Botox, and a typical number of units can be anywhere from 20 to 40 (depending, of course, on your facial muscles and how you want to look). And remember, Botox needs to be maintained regularly because results wear off after about four months. In total, the math maths to about $300 to $800, a few times a year.

As for skincare products and wrinkle treatments, many jars and bottles can last several months before being replaced, and you may even be able to take advantage of sales and deals. At-home skincare devices (like microcurrent devices, or LED light therapy masks) are a one-time purchase, although you may need to buy batteries or activator gels every now and then.

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