The Magic of Dries Van Noten

the magic of dries van noten
The Magic of Dries Van Notengetty
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Earlier this year, designer Dries Van Noten announced his decision to step away from his namesake brand after close to four decades at the helm. A member of the fabled group of designers known as the Antwerp Six, which emerged out Belgium in the 1980s, Van Noten has remained one of fashion’s most fiercely beloved and singularly independent creative forces, producing a body of work that has consistently surprised and delighted. Ahead of his final show in Paris tomorrow as part of the Spring 2025 menswear collections, Bazaar editors weigh in on some of their favorite Dries runway looks.


SPRING 2013 READY-TO-WEAR

Look 36

paris, france september 26 a model walks the runway during the dries van noten spring summer 2013 show as part of paris fashion week on september 26, 2012 in paris, france photo by victor virgilegamma rapho via getty images
Victor Virgile

"This look is from the spring 2013 'grunge'-inspired collection in which Van Noten took that staple—the plaid flannel—and made it, as he always does, beautiful and elegant. (Which is not an easy thing to pull of when it comes to grunge.) It's also a recipe, a simple instruction manual on how to layer and mix prints, which Van Noten does season after season. This particular formula, of a slouchy oversized v-neck sweater over a button-down over flowy pants, is something I'm still trying to emulate."Leah Chernikoff, executive editor


SPRING 2005 READY-TO-WEAR

Look 1

a model walks down the runway at the spring 2005 dries van noten show in paris photo by giovanni giannoniwwdpenske media via getty images
WWD

"My first Dries Van Noten show was as perfect as it was memorable: A celebration of his 50th show with dinner for 500 at a beautifully set long table that magically turned into a runway. Under 130 crystal chandeliers, the models walked effortlessly in his signature prints, florals, and embroideries, with the opening looks in perfect summer white cottons. It was a night to remember—pure magic."—Nicole Fritton, executive fashion director


SPRING 2016 READY-TO-WEAR

Look 25

a person wearing a dress
Daniele Oberrauch

"This is pattern clashing at its finest. It's one of those outfits that doesn't just work on runway, it translates to a wonderful IRL ensemble. So stereotypically Dries!"—Lynette Nylander, executive digital director


SPRING 2005 MENSWEAR

Look 37

a model displays a creation as part of belgian dries van noten springsummer 2005 mens ready to wear, 03 july 2004, during paris fashion week afp photo pierre verdy photo by pierre verdy afp photo by pierre verdyafp via getty images
PIERRE VERDY

"This was my first DVN show, which took place at the École des Beaux-Arts in Paris. It felt like a rebellious aristocrat vagabond who found his artistic calling—it was inspired by Prince Harry. This was the complete start of my unwavering love affair with the Dries look: playful colorful print mixes, cool easy silhouettes, and romantic story telling that always drew you in and made you feel welcomed and oh so chic. I still have that shirt!"—Miguel Enamorado, accessories director


SPRING 2015 READY-TO-WEAR

Look 13

a person wearing a dress
getty

"The Spring 2015 season will always be cemented in my brain as a quintessentially Dries collection. I remember being completely enchanted by the runway images of the Ophelia-inspired clothes and the grassy woven carpet made by the Argentinean artist Alexandra Kehayoglou. It has everything that makes Dries a legend: delicious, uncomplicated textures; pattern play; undeniable, effortless cool; and a feeling of freedom that only a truly masterful designer can conjure up."—Brooke Bobb, fashion news director


SPRING 2008 READY-TO-WEAR

Look 1

a person wearing a colorful outfit
DAN & CORINA LECCA

"This look feels like the epitome of Dries Van Noten—a kaleidoscope of mix-matched prints and artisanal floral patterns, bursting with joy all over. Only he could combine so many different ideas into one look, yet make it still feel thoughtful and elevated. Brilliant!"—Jaclyn Alexandra Cohen, senior fashion and accessories editor


FALL 2010 READY-TO-WEAR

Look 43

a person walking on a runway
getty

"Look 43 from the Dries Van Noten 2010 collection encapsulates who I wanted to be in high school when I first saw it on Tumblr...and who I wanted to be in college…and who I want to be right now. Dries has always had a way of making clothes that feel right. When I look back at my mood board from the 2010s I mostly cringe, but this look has remained timeless. It’s elegant but grunge. It's a look for a woman who knows how to get dressed but also doesn’t care what anyone else thinks because she knows exactly who she is. It’s not too serious. It’s just cool."—Tara Gonzalez, senior fashion editor


SPRING 2000 READY-TO-WEAR

Look 33

model audrey marnay walks in the dries van noten spring 2000 ready to wear runway show on october 3, 1999, in paris, france photo by giovanni giannonipenske media via getty images
Penske Media

"Choosing just one look from his spring 2000 collection was very difficult, but ultimately I had to go with this lace cardigan with elongated sleeves and this embroidered skirt. It’s not quintessential Dries in the way of pattern clashing, but you can still see him in the timeless silhouettes and mix of textures. It may have been over two decades ago, but I would wear this today, tomorrow, and 20 years from now."—Faith Brown, senior social media editor


SPRING 2015 MENSWEAR

Look 51

paris, france june 26 a model walks the runway during the dries van notten show as part of the paris fashion week menswear springsummer 2015 on june 26, 2014 in paris, france photo by antonio de moraes barros filhowireimage
Antonio de Moraes Barros Filho

"Dries’s work is characterized by many things—joy, the mixture of patterns and textures, an unbridled sense of creativity. For me, I’ve always loved the way he plays with gender, and his 2015 spring/summer menswear show felt particularly transgressive. The collection was overflowing with exciting pieces, from stretchy suspenders that looked like corsets to ballet flats paired with tops painted to resemble football jerseys. With this look in particular, I can’t get enough of its casual coolness and breezy sensuality. The regal robe decorated with a swathe of embroidered paisley looks like something straight out of Elton John’s closet, but then it’s styled with sporty joggers and Scandi-style ballet flats. Did this model just roll out of bed? Is he headed to the most exclusive rooftop party in New York? It doesn’t matter, because the look would be showstopping in any context."—Joel Calfee, editorial and social media assistant


SPRING 2020 READY-TO-WEAR

Look 22

the magic of dries van noten
getty

"When it comes to Dries Van Noten’s dreamy archive, singling out a favorite look is no easy feat. But among the treasure trove of botanical wonders and irreverent tailoring, Van Noten’s collaboration with Christian Lacroix circa spring/summer 2020 emerges as a personal favorite. The designer’s partnership with the legendary couturier was pure indulgence for the eyes. Rich golden brocades, cascading ruffled hems, and plumes of ostrich feathers imbued Dries’s subliminal world with Lacroix’s signature touch of exuberance. Look 22 especially stands out; the delicious mix of gold-flecked floral motifs adorned with a decadent black faille ribbon was an irresistible delight that lives rent-free in my mind. Oh, and the leopard print mohair platform peeping from the hem of the trouser—chef’s kiss!"—Jennifer Jenkins, assistant accessories editor

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