I Slathered Snail Goo on My Skin in the Name of Hydration

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The first ingredient you think of for plump, hydrated skin might not be "snail mucin." But it's been gaining a lot of traction on social media, especially on Korean skincare-Tok. While it might sound a bit Fear Factor, experts have assured that it is perfectly safe to use—and even supremely beneficial for moisturizing your skin. So, I had to put it to the test for a full CosRx Advanced Snail 96 Mucin Power Essence review.

If the idea of piling on snail secretion scares you, don't worry: I spent the past month trying the product out—fortune favors the bold, or whatever they say. I also compared it to other snail-mucin products on the market, as well as vegan alternatives. Plus, I consulted with a dermatologist and a cosmetic chemist to get the 411. Below is everything you need to know about snail mucin—but first, a full rundown of the Cosrx Advanced Snail 96 Mucin Power Essence:

Key ingredients: Snail secretion filtrate, hyaluronic acid, betaine, allantoin, panthenol

What it does: This essence can help soothe damaged skin, reduce dark spots, boost collagen production, and improve skin barrier.

Pros:

• Very hydrating

• Not too sticky, per my testing

• Affordable compared to other essences on the market

Cons:

• Not vegan

• It does leave behind a slight residue

What does CosRX Advanced Snail Mucin Essence do?

CosRX Advanced Snail Mucin Essence uses 96 percent snail mucin, which dermatologist Gloria Lin, MD, says, "can be beneficial for moisturizing, soothing irritation, and repairing your skin barrier, thanks to ingredients such as hyaluronic acid and glycoproteins." It also includes growth factors that promote collagen and elastin production, potentially aiding in anti-aging efforts, says Dr. Lin.

Additionally, snail mucin contains vitamins like zinc, manganese, and copper, all of which are known for their anti-inflammatory properties. Research indicates that snail mucin can also exhibit natural antimicrobial effects, offering potential benefits for those with acne-prone skin. Translation: It checks all the boxes.

Is snail mucin really worth the hype?

Snail mucin can be worth the hype...to a certain extent. According to cosmetic chemist Reham Essa, the goop dates back to the Greek physician Hippocrates, who crushed snails to treat skin inflammation. Snail mucin is a natural secretion produced when snails are stressed, serving as a protective substance. (FWIW, before you call PETA, CosRX promises no snails were harmed in the process of developing this essence.) Products containing snail mucin often include additional ingredients such as hyaluronic acid and glycerin, providing noticeable hydration, too.

However, there haven't been extensive controlled clinical trials to assess its long-term effects. So, "while snail mucin may offer benefits for some individuals, there are other ingredients that have been more extensively studied and could potentially be more effective, depending on the desired results," says Dr. Lin.

Can I use CosRX Snail Mucin every day?

Yes, you can use it every day, says Dr. Lin. Actually, people often slather it over their face as part of their nighttime skincare routine to help hydrate skin. But you can also use it to add a lightweight layer of moisture in the morning too. Just make sure you're applying it on clean skin.

Are there any downsides to snail mucin?

Like many buzzy skincare ingredients, more studies are needed to fully understand the potential side effects of snail mucin, but current evidence suggests it's generally well-tolerated by most skin types. "It has not been shown to be comedogenic or pore-clogging, which is good news for those with acne-prone skin," notes Dr. Lin.

The biggest downside, though, is that it's derived from animals, and therefore not vegan. For CosRX products, the mucin is obtained from snail farms where snails naturally excrete it. The most humane collection method involves placing snails in a controlled environment to secrete mucin at their own pace, although this yields less product and takes longer, Dr. Lin says. However, some methods involve stressing the snails to increase yield, such as low-voltage electrical stimulation or physical agitation, which raises ethical concerns about the ingredient.

Individuals allergic to snail mucin, particularly those with shellfish or seafood allergies, should avoid it, says Essa. Before applying any new product, make sure to patch test it on your hands or neck for 24 hours to avoid any adverse reactions.

My CosRX Advanced Snail Mucin Essence review:

About my skin:

Lately, my skin has been incredibly dehydrated, which I've attributed to many late nights on the town—as well as not keeping up with my hydration in the summer weather (I'm busy!). My skin is as sensitive as I am (Pisces moon) and doesn't react well when I introduce harsh chemical exfoliants or aggressive at-home peels into my routine. As I've gotten older, I have way fewer breakouts, but I still get a few zits around my chin area during my period.

How I use it:

I’m a less-is-more girlie, partly because my skin reacts better when I keep it simple, and partly because I’m lazy. But this month, I incorporated the snail mucin essence into my existing nighttime routine. I start with a gentle cleanser, then pat the CosRX Snail 96 Mucin Power Essence into damp skin, following with a gel-cream or overnight mask, depending on how much hydration I need. I finish with two hours of existential thoughts and doomscrolling on my phone!

Results:

Thankfully, this product is capital-G Gentle, so I was able to use it every day without experiencing any purging or flare-ups. My skin looked a lot more hydrated and glowy, which is a win because as I’ve gotten older, I’ve noticed my skin looks duller and less full of life. The product is naturally a bit slimy, so the texture takes some getting used to, but there’s nothing I wouldn’t do for good skin.

I received a lot of compliments this month, which may have to do with the transparent volume of selfies I posted on Instagram to bait a crush—but also because my skin was dewier and I didn’t have any major breakouts. As a result, I was able to wear a lot less makeup this month, with many sunscreen-and-a-dab-of-concealer days.

Final verdict:

I wouldn’t go as far as to say this product is life-changing—that’s a term I typically reserve for in-office treatments or strong exfoliants—but it’s definitely been a worthwhile addition to my skincare routine. It’s relatively affordable and can be easily incorporated into any existing skincare regimen if you're looking to add some ~vitality~ to your face and soothe damaged skin. The product is incredibly gentle and not a huge investment, so you can use it generously and daily too. All told, it’s worth a shot if you’re after that glass-skin look. What can I say? Cool girls love K-beauty.

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Meet the experts:

• Gloria Lin, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist at Schweiger Dermatology Group in New York, NY.

• Reham Essa is a cosmetic chemist and founder of Radixir Skincare.

Why trust Cosmopolitan?

Iman Balagam is a beauty contributor at Cosmopolitan with nearly four years of experience writing skincare stories that range from forehead acne to chin acne. She’s an authority in all categories, but is an expert when it comes to skincare, thanks to years of personally researching and testing different products to banish her breakouts.

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