New Orleans, Louisiana in Four Days: A Jazz Lover's Guide
Exploring Cities and Small Towns, From Coast-to-Coast, One Family Field Trip at a Time
To say New Orleans is our favorite city to travel to as a family would be an understatement. We absolutely love visiting and try to explore new-to-us areas every time we visit. When Explore Louisiana invited us to visit for a trip, we jumped at the chance.
Sean, Tom, and I love jazz music and decided to make the trip all about embracing the city's jazz culture, mixed with restaurants we haven't been to before, newly discovered shops, neighborhoods we haven't explored, and more. I have so much to share so you can plan a fun-filled four-day visit to New Orleans. Enjoy! - Erin
Day One:
Arrive in town and head straight to a local po’boy spot. We love Domilise’s, but Parkway is another crowd favorite. Afterward, grab a sno ball! It’s like a snow cone, but the ice is shaved so close that it’s almost velvety.
We tried Chance in Hell during this visit but have loved Hansen’s and Williams Plum Street on past visits.
Down the block from Chance in Hell, pop into Studio Be Gallery and take in all the murals.
Next, head to the New Orleans Jazz Museum. It's a smaller, very well-curated museum. Everything from photographs to paintings to old instruments is on display, and there are interactive components that will keep younger children engaged.
Something we haven't done before was catch a live performance in the museum's event space. We watched Rex Gregory perform. These events are free and don't require a museum ticket. You can visit these concerts even without a museum ticket. It's incredible to read about the history of jazz in Congo Square and then walk down the street to Congo Square, see images from a second line walking down a street, then head back out and walk that same street.
You can feel the history of a city like New Orleans. It's different from other places we've traveled to. New Orleans is a living, breathing soundtrack; I love that feeling. Engulfed in the music, you are instantly transported back to a place when you hear a particular song. That's New Orleans, and this museum fosters those feelings.
Wander around Frenchman Street, just a block from the museum, and pop into Louisiana Music Factory. We love this record store; it has a fantastic collection across genres.
Where to Stay
It's almost time to check into our hotel and get ready for our dinner reservations. There are so many unique hotels and restaurants in New Orleans that all the fantastic options are overwhelming. We tend to stay at the same hotel each time because I’m a points nerd, but here are my dream hotels:
Pro tip: Since we can’t stay at all of these hotels at once, I love visiting their restaurants, bars, and coffee shops when we can. It always feels a bit elevated, and I get to experience a bit of the hotel's design.
Rounding out day one, we opted for dinner at Pêche. We ordered a bunch of small plates and shared everything. It was incredible and so fresh!
I look forward to visiting again and trying all the new plates. Afterward, we walked a few blocks to the Ace Hotel for family photo booth pictures. We have made this a family tradition every time we go to New Orleans, and it’s one of my favorite things to do.
Day Two:
Beignets are essential in New Orleans; consider them the city's donut. You can’t go wrong with Cafe du Monde, Morning Call, Cafe Beignet, or our new favorite, Hot Benny’s.
If you go to Cafe du Monde, think about heading to the City Park location for a more local vibe. Grab a box of the mix to take home; it’s a great Christmas morning treat. After filling up on beignets, head to a museum.
New Orleans is full of many different types of museums, something for everyone. I suggest spending the morning at the Ogden Museum of Southern Art, the New Orleans Museum of Art (don't skip the free sculpture garden), or The National World War II Museum.
After a morning of culture, do a little shopping on Magazine, Uptown, and the Bywater. A few shops I love to pop into are:
Book lunch at San Lorenzo for a nice, fancy meal. I ordered the Caesar salad and a side of truffle fries. So delicious!
Walk off lunch by wandering through Congo Square within Armstrong Park. This park played a significant role in the Black community and as a hot spot for jazz music.
Going back to times of enslavement, Congo Square was a constant safe place for the Black community. On Sundays, you can find the Congo Square Drum Circle performing from 3-6 pm.
We headed to Hotel Peter and Paul, another beautifully designed hotel within a former church, for happy hour. It was the calm and downtime we needed after a morning of exploring and learning. The lounge is kid-friendly, but the bar is 21+.
After drinks, visit Dooky Chase’s to learn about the institution's importance during the Civil Rights Movement. I can't wait to eat here on our next visit. Next, visit Treme’s Petit Jazz Museum, a sweet spot in the jazz neighborhood.
Top your night off with reservations to have one of the best meals I’ve ever eaten: Saffron. We ordered several dishes and split everything. It was amazing! The style is Indian, but it’s not what we’ve come to expect from Indian restaurants in America.
It’s so forward-thinking and plated as if it were a piece of art. Be sure to order the ginger creme brulee. Wow! So good!
Day Three:
Start your morning at Willa Jean for an elevated Southern breakfast. It will give you the sustenance you need for this packed day full of adventure. Across the street from the restaurant, check out the Unframed series of murals.
After breakfast, go by the New Orleans Jazz National Park. You can pop in for the history of jazz in the city, join a drum circle, learn about local concerts, and more. I plan to add this from the park into our homeschool lessons.
We got the information about the walking tour of jazz history in Algiers. I've always been curious about this neighborhood but hadn't visited it. If I lived in New Orleans, I might want to live in this sleepy part of the city. It was so charming; very Small Town Living.
Catch a 30-minute ferry from Jackson Square across the river and begin your walking tour from the Louie Armstrong statue, which looks out over the Mississippi River. We loved this neighborhood, wandering through the quiet streets and learning about its connection to the jazz movement in New Orleans.
Pop into Congregation Coffee for an iced coffee or tea, and continue your walk. Have lunch at Barracuda Taco Stand, one of the best taco shops we’ve been to. Housed in an old gas station, it's a completely charming taco stand in the middle of a residential area of Algiers.
Once you’ve walked your morning away and have your belly full of tacos, head back across the river to catch a live performance at Preservation Hall.
You should buy your tickets ahead of time because the venue is small and fills up quickly. It’s a special time to be up, close, and personal with the band. You feel like you are part of the performance.
Afterward, keep the excitement going and wander through Jackson Square to catch a jazz street performance.
Next, take a street car ride. Try to grab a seat, relax for a bit, and enjoy the ride.
Finally, it's time to eat again! Try the new spot, St. Pizza. You can grab pizza by the slice or eat in their tavern. We loved it! The pizzas are big, so keep that in mind when ordering.
Day Four:
It's time to head home. Before leaving town, grab breakfast at Molly’s Rise and Shine; from the folks behind Turkey & the Wolf and Hungry Eyes, Molly's is equally quirky and innovative.
If you drive to New Orleans, head east before leaving town and get some Vietnamese pastries and Bahi Mi sandwiches at Dong Phuong Bakery for the road.
Visit Explore Louisiana to discover more places throughout the state for a music genre-based trip itinerary that fits you and your musical taste. Each itinerary highlights the musical genre most associated with that area.
These locations include restaurants, dance halls, museums, outdoor activities, and more. You can pick from cajun, country, blues, and jazz (as we did), add your own spots, or follow the itinerary already created. Check back tomorrow for day two of our jazzy visit to New Orleans.
Until next time, New Orleans. We will always be back! - Erin Austen Abbott