Storytelling, Color Stand Out at Paris Trade Shows

Alex Wynne

March 10, 2023 at 10:51 AM·12 min read

PARIS — The recent round of trade shows during Paris Fashion Week hailed the return of Asian buyers in force, returning to find shaken-up formats and an array of new and revamped brands. At Première Classe in the Tuileries gardens, footfall rose 57 percent on last March’s edition, to reach 10,736, with twice as many international visitors as a year ago. They accounted for 67 percent of footfall.

Numbers were at last back to pre-pandemic levels, said Frédéric Maus. show organizer WSN Développement’s general director. “The fashion community is back in Paris, and there’s a real sense of dynamism,” he said. “Wholesale is back, and online sales are slowing.”

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Inside the show, the organizer had shaken things up, with more mixing of categories between accessories, ready-to-wear and jewelry to encourage traffic through the space and an enhanced scenography. Some 400 brands were exhibiting, including 30 percent of newcomers.

“This edition is more interesting. The layout of the booths is different and has changed in a good way,” said Tomomi Asako, ready-to-wear brand director at United Arrows. “There are more ready-to-wear items than before, which I particularly like.”

Outside Première Classe / Credit: Kim Weber

Over at Tranoï, at the Bourse, some 155 designers were showing, and buyers were back — and remarking significant changes to the show’s format compared with three years ago. “We’ve had very strong feedback from major retail accounts. Visitors are adhering to the new concept and congratulating us for the changes,” said Tranoï chief executive officer Boris Provost. “People are writing orders, which was less the case in September; the business aspect is much stronger. It’s still complicated for young designers to get new retail accounts but less than it was six months ago; there is a place for creativity,” he added.

Hat designer Coco Bagtazo, showing at Tranoï for the first time, said business had been brisk. “Everyone’s buying for the future again, which is nice. People had been buying in-season, which was challenging for wholesale.”

Inside Tranoï / Credit: Mahdi Aridj Photography

Color and storytelling were the name of the game, as buyers and stylists sought out standouts among the younger brands to complement core collections seen on the runway and in the showrooms. “I’m glad to see color is hitting in fall,” Bagtazo said. For jewelry, it was also statement pieces that caught the eye.

“We did most of our must-have buying in New York last week, we’re looking for something extra,” said Edie Caldwell, of Alice boutique in Nashville, Tennessee. Trends spotted at the Paris shows included pinstripes, corduroy and lots of color, she said.

“Emily in Paris” costume designer Marylin Fitoussi was among the visitors at Tranoï, and she praised the colorful collections, in contrast with the more subdued silhouettes she had seen on the runways. With the Netflix show’s success, she has made it her mission to promote young designers and as such the Paris trade shows offer a wealth of newcomers to discover, she said. But she was also shopping for new projects.

“I’m looking for emotion, to be surprised,” she said.

Her highlights at Tranoï included the African designer showcase with Creative Africa Nexus (Canex), as well as designers from South Korea showing under the Seoul Fashion Week initiative, where newcomers this season included Vegan Tiger and Kwak Hyun Joo.

“It’s clothes I love, not fashion. It’s rewarding to be able to give power and visibility to these young designers. I love their enthusiasm and passion,” Fitoussi said. She also picked out jewelry brands Stone Copenhagen, from Denmark, and MAM, from Spain, among favorites.

African designers are on the rise, Tranoï’s organizers highlighted during a conference just before the show to highlight the initiative, which was put in place by the African Export-Import Bank to support the continent’s creative industries.

It was the second time for the initiative but this time, with 17 designers showing in a larger, dedicated space, buyers were paying attention. “Last time, it felt like an exhibition. This time, it feels like we’re here to do business,” said Judy Anderson, founder of her eponymous label.

Emiko Kataoka, executive director at Japanese retailer Anayi, visiting Première Classe, was happy to be back after three years away and noticed the changes to both format and offer. Despite the weak yen, she was keen to shop for something new, with Japan’s mask mandates set to be lifted fully from April, expected to be a strong driver at retail. “People are going out again and events like weddings are back on, as well as back-to-school season in April, with lots of ceremonies, so they are looking for occasionwear and to dress up again,” she said.

Nevertheless, she said, the weak yen means the retailer is mindful of budgets. “It’s 1.5 times more expensive than before the pandemic so we need to be careful.” The Japanese buyer highlighted trends including colorful collections and hair accessories at Première Classe. “Accessories are big rather than small,” she said.

Over at Woman, which retained a scaled-back showroom format in the Marais, director Antoine Floch reiterated that sentiment, saying that despite being glad to be back, international buyers were feeling the pressure – not just on collection budgets but on travel, with hotel and restaurant prices having skyrocketed in Paris.

“Things are getting back to normal, but brands and retailers are being really careful. Flights are crazy, and people aren’t staying over the weekend,” he said. “But we need to connect and try to get through things together. A lot of us are independent businesses, and we’re all in the same boat.”

Highlights at the Paris trade shows

Judy Sanderson

Showing at: Tranoï

Category: Ready-to-wear

Story: Judy Sanderson pays tribute to the elders of her homeland, South Africa, and her adopted country, Portugal, with her tailored wardrobe, using deadstock and working with older tailors and patternmakers close to her studio. Known for her structured shoulders and outerwear, each color in her collection has a meaning in Zulu culture.

Price range: 69 to 686 euros (retail)

Dimension Cachée

Showing at: Tranoï

Category: Rtw

Story: Self-taught designer Marie V. was among the newbies at Tranoï, with a collection combining statement pieces in dévoré silk velvet with workwear basics in shades of blue, écru and black. Highlights included a kimono dress and a miniskirt with press-stud fittings that revealed shimmering cycling shorts underneath.

Price range: 90 to 1,195 euros (retail)