Watch: Is the Risk Really Worth the Reward at XXL Puerto Escondido?
XXL Puerto Escondido is unlike any wave in the world.
No channel. No obvious lineups. Nowhere to hide.
Over Labor Day weekend, Puerto's underwater canyon funneled in a long period south swell and tripled it in size. The result was a day of chaos, carnage and — occasionally — completed tubes.
In the raw and unedited 12-minute clip above, we get a feel for what it's like watching massive Puerto from the beach. During one massive set, we see Matt Bromley take the tip of his surfboard to the head, and the lineup come to his rescue (see the aftermath below). During the next huge set to roll through, two surfers launch themselves over the falls and into oblivion. In-between those, a few surfers pick off insiders (which are still massive by normal standards), and manage to actually make it out of their tubes.
Every single wave this day is a roll of the dice. The perfect looking ones often mutate into nightmares on the drop, which makes you wonder: Is the risk really worth the (seemingly rare) reward at XXL Puerto?
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