Raw milk dairy in Fresno County sees spike in sales, despite warnings from US agencies

When federal officials announced in March that there was an outbreak of avian flu in dairy cows, the government cautioned against drinking raw, unpasteurized milk.

What did the customers of Fresno County’s raw milk dairy do? They bought more — lots more.

Mark McAfee, founder of Raw Farm USA, formerly Organic Pastures, is selling more raw milk than ever, up to 80,000 gallons a week.

Raw Farm USA is the world’s largest raw dairy brand, operating two dairies in Fresno and Kings counties.

“Our products have been flying off the shelves,” McAfee said “People are saying we want more raw milk, and that is what we are seeing in our customers.”

Does bird flu in dairy cows affect raw milk?

The increased demand comes at time when scientists and health officials are warning consumers to avoid drinking raw milk after an outbreak of HPAI A(H5N1) bird flu was found in dairy cows in late March.

This is the first time the bird flu virus has been found in dairy cows. Although not nearly as harmful to cows, the flu virus has led to the deaths of over 52 million birds in the United States this year, according to the United States Department of Agriculture.

The Food and Drug Administration, based on limited research and information, does not yet know whether the avian flu viruses can be transmitted through drinking unpasteurized raw milk and products, such as cheese.

Still, the consensus among state and federal health officials is to avoid drinking raw milk because it is not pasteurized, a process used in conventional milk production to kill potentially harmful bacteria.

Raw milk advocates argue pasteurization kills the helpful bacteria necessary for a healthy immune system, which is what they want. They also aren’t swayed by the advice of government health experts.

And in some cases they openly flaunt the government’s warnings.

McAfee estimates his raw milk sales grew 32% during the month of May compared to the same month last year. He credits the use of social media, and people changing their diets for health reasons.

Nationally, since March 25 weekly sales of raw cow’s milk have risen from 21% up to 65% compared with the same periods a year ago, according to the market research firm NielsenIQ.

Although not nearly as devastating as the avian flu was to poultry, the flu has infected about 90 dairy herds in 12 states, not including California, USDA scientists have confirmed. Infected cows generally eat less and produce less milk.

To prevent the flu virus from spreading, California has set up safeguards, including requiring all cattle entering the state to have a Certificate of Veterinary Inspection signed by an accredited veterinarian. The certificate assures the cattle are not sick and not exposed to disease.

Raw milk drinkers remain loyal to product

Raw milk drinkers like Erin Cox, a married mother of one from Clovis, says bluntly that she doesn’t trust what federal officials say about drinking raw milk.

She said she’s been a raw milk drinker for six years and has not encountered a problem. She also feeds her daughter raw kefir, a fermented milk product, similar to a watery yogurt.

Cox said government agencies have misplaced their priorities and should be focused on other things harmful to children.

“We need to be far more concerned about feeding our children healthy foods,” she said. “We have kids drinking blue Gatorade and spicy chips for lunch. I feel like people are starting to question what we are being told.”

Raquel Cordaway, a wife and mother of four, didn’t make the decision to drink raw milk lightly. She was on a vegan diet, but decided she needed a change. She spent time researching the pros and cons before deciding to switch from oat milk to raw milk from Raw Farm.

She hasn’t regretted it, even as the health experts warn against drinking raw milk.

“Personally, it has become our family’s super food; it is very nutritional,” said Cordaway, who lives in Antioch. “I am aware of the issue of contamination in food, like lettuce and leafy greens, but when you consume something raw there is always going to be a risk.”

Cordaway and Cox were among the more than 1,500 people who visited the raw milk farm’s Camping with the Cows event in late April.

The event, now in its 10th year, includes camping in the pasture, dairy tours and even a milk chugging contest.

It also serves as a marketing tool to support raw milk and the dairy. Kaleigh Stanziani, co-owner and marketing director of Raw Farm, routinely invites social media influencers who are fans of the dairy and raw milk.

Cordaway is one of those who likes to share her life with her nearly 17,000 followers on Instagram.

“I like to share my journey as a mom and the healthy food choices we make,” she said. “If I go to the store and buy some raw milk and make a smoothie, I talk about it. I have some friends who never tried raw milk and who like it now, and others who say it is not their cup of tea. And that’s OK, too.”

Growth despite product recalls

McAfee, whose dairy follows strict testing procedures, sees his dairy and raw milk consumption continuing to grow, even under the scrutiny of regulators.

In February, McAfee tangled with the FDA and the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention over the possibility its raw milk cheddar might have made caused at least 10 illnesses in four states. Out of abundance of caution, the dairy voluntarily recalled some of its cheese, but McAfee said no evidence of E. coli was found.

Last October, Raw Farm also had to voluntarily recall its fluid milk and heavy cream in the state after 19 people in Southern California became ill with salmonella. Health officials linked the illnesses to drinking Raw Farm’s milk or milk products.

Still, despite the voluntary recalls many of McAfee’s customers have remained unbothered.

“We see our sales continue to grow through all of this; people are making their own decisions about their health,” McAfee said. “And our customers trust us.”